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Take better travel photos
Travel Photography
 People tend to take a lot of pictures when they travel or go on vacation. People explore new place, see new things and they want to have a visual reminder of their travels. The problem is that most of the time the photographs people take while traveling suffer from several problems, they can be boring, look like everyone elses photos of the same place and don't capture the real feel of the subject. There are a few simple things you can do to improve your photos on your next trip. Lets first start with equipment. A lot of the time people will take small point and shoot cameras with them when they travel. This is not a bad choice, point and shoot cameras tend to be compact, light weight, easy to carry (all important considerations when traveling) and most of the point and shoot cameras on the market today take good quality photos. There are also small compact cameras on the market today that allow for more creative control than the basic point and shoot, while remaining compact, light weight and easy to carry. The Canon G10 and the Panasonic LX3 are just two examples of these advanced compact cameras. Many advanced compact cameras can yield great results that can give the best DSLR's a run for their money. More serious photographers may still opt to travel with a DSLR camera. Traveling with a DSLR may add some extra weight and baggage but for a serious travel photographer it can be worth it. However, most people can get by just as well with a good quality advanced compact camera.   It is important to consider the zoom range of an advanced compact camera when choosing a camera for travel photography. You want a good range of zoom, wide angles for sceneic shots, but also a good normal to telephoto range for taking more intimate photos and portraits. Using a compact camera can also allow you to take street photos without being too conspicuious. Regardless of what camera you are using, there are a few simple things you can do to improve your travel photography. The first and most important is to be famillar and comfortable with your camera and its functions. If you are using a new camera on your trip, get to know it first. It may pay to take a class to familiarize yourself with your new camera. Get to know the ins and out of your camera so you don't bumble around trying to learn how to use your camera when you are on your trip. Take practice photos at home and know what functions you like and how to use them. Read the camera manual and remember to take it with you on your trip for reference. Nothing worse than getting the opportunity for that perfect shot and missing it because you can't work your camera! Remember to bring enough memory card space with you, as people tend to take a lot of photographs while traveling. Also, don't forget extra batteries and your battery charger, keep in mind you may need a power converter when traveling abroad.  Once you are familiar with your camera and ready to shoot there are a few things you can do to improve your travel photos. One thing that happens with the photos people tend to take of certain things like landmarks and popular locations is that they tend to look like a lot of other peoples photographs of the same places. There is little to set them apart and make them more interesting. For example, see the three photos of the Eiffel Tower in Paris below, they are shot by three different people, on different days, however, they all look almost identical.  The key is to avoid taking the same identical photographs that everyone else takes and make your photographs more interesting and unique. The most basic thing you can do it to change your vantage point, don't shoot from the same location that everyone else is shooting from. Move closer to the subject and shoot from a different angel as in the photo below.  It is ok to not include the entire structure, the subject is still recognizable as the Eiffel Tower even though you can't see the entire thing. The shot is more interesting because it shows the Eiffel Tower in a different and more creative way than we usually see it. Showing even less of the structure with a subject like the Eiffel Tower can be more visually attractive as seen below.  The photo is still recognizable as the Eiffel Tower, but is more visually appealing and unique than the above examples. So simply by changing your location to a subject you can set your photographs far apart from typical travel photos. The next thing you can do to set your travel photos apart from the rest is to shoot at different times of the day. Most people visit landmarks during the middle of the day, therefore their photographs will be of daytime scenes. By visiting a landmark at a different time of day or night you have the opportunity to shoot more interesting photographs. For example see the photo below of the Eiffel Tower in the evening, notice how even the typical view of the Tower is made more interesting simply because of the time of day it is shot at.  In addition to shooting well recognizable landmarks when traveling, it can be interesting to shoot street scenes when traveling. Shooting interesting street scenes especially when traveling in other countries and cultures can yield excellent photographs that are not typical vacation snap shots. Using an advanced compact camera comes in handy for street photography. The small camera allows you to shoot without disturbing the natural flow of a scene and in some cases without disturbing the subject at all by making them aware you are photographing them. Look for scenes with interesting colors, or interesting people doing things that you may not be used to seeing at home. Make the photograph tell a story of another culture or way of life. See the photos below for examples.

Sports Photography
Sports Photography
 Sports photography is of interest to a wide variety of people. We have all seen iconic images of sports stars like Micheal Jordan, Mohammed Ali, David Wright, and others. These photographs are taken by trained professional sports photographers with the latest photographic equipment for getting the best shot. Many people have tried their had at shooting sports photography before, weather it is on the sidelines of a youth sports game or shooting from the stands at a professional sports game. Equipment
Choosing the right equipment for the job is an important thing to consider. Lets start with the basics of choosing a camera for shooting sports photographs. Action in sports obviously moves very fast, so catching the 'decisive moment' in the action when everything falls into place can be very difficult for a photographer. Because of the fast moving action, one of the most important things to consider when choosing a camera for shooting sports photography is the continuous shooting burst rate or 'frames per second' (fps) rate. What that means is the amount of photographs that the camera will take continuously in one second when shooting in a continuous shooting mode, the higher the fps rate the more shots the camera will take in one second. This is an important consideration when shooting sports photography because the action can move very fast and the more photographs you can take of the action, the better your chances of getting that one spectacular shot are. Most DSLRs and some advanced point and shoot cameras have a continuous shooting mode.  Example of continuous burst rate shooting. Below is a list of DSLR cameras and their continuous shooting burst rates. Choosing a camera with continuous auto-focus is also important. Most DSLR cameras have a continuous auto-focus function. Continuous auto-focus will continuously refocus the shot to keep up with the ever changing action. Because sports action moves fast, continuous auto-focus is an important function that will help keep your shots well focused. All of the cameras listed above have a continuous auto-focus function. The next thing to consider is what lens to choose. Choosing the correct lens to shoot sports photography is as important as choosing the correct camera. The main two things to consider when choosing a lens are the maximum aperture of the lens and the focal length. Lets start with the aperture. The maximum aperture of a lens effects the amount of light that passes through the lens to the film plane. The larger the aperture, the more light passes through to the film plane, the shorter the shutter speed will need to be to obtain the correct exposure. Aperture size is so important in sports photography because it directly effects the shutter speed value. In sports photography a fast shutter speed is usually required to freeze the fast paced action. Aperture sizes are listed by number, with the lower number being the larger aperture. For example, an aperture of f/4 is larger than an aperture of f/11. Maximum aperture sizes are usually listed in the name of the lens, for example the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 EF-L USM lens has a maximum aperture size of 2.8. For most action sports you will want a maximum aperture value of f/2.8. However, if you plan to only shoot outdoor sports in bright sunlight you can probably get away with using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/4. Using a large aperture when shooting sports photography will allow you to use a fast shutter speed. A fast shutter speed will help to 'freeze' the action and prevent 'motion blur.' Another effect of using a large shutter speed is the shallow depth of field. Having a shallow depth of field will help isolate the main subject of the photograph from the other elements that may be in the shot. This effect will draw more attention to the main subject and enhance the effect of the dramatic effect of the photograph. An example of this can be seen below, notice how the action of the baseball players in the photo is frozen and sharply focused, while the umpire, who is standing only feet behind the players is out of focus. This effect draws the viewers eye to the action, instead of being distracted by other elements in the photograph.  As mentioned above, it is very important to use a fast shutter speed in sports photography. Using a fast shutter speed will freeze the fast paced action. A photograph of blurry figures playing sports is of little use. Most DSLR cameras will have shutter speeds that go up to or beyond 1/8000th of a second. This is fast enough to freeze just about any sports action you will encounter, even race cars traveling at over 200mph. Shutter speeds over 1/1000th of a second will start to be able to freeze most sports action. However, allowing for some motion blur in a sports photograph can create excellent effects as well. For example, when photographing a baseball pitcher pitching a ball, it may be an interesting effect to have the ball or part of the pitchers arm slightly blurred from motion, while the rest of the pitcher is in sharp focus. This effect is illustrated in the photograph below, notice how the pitchers face and body is frozen and in sharp focus, while his arm and the ball is slightly blurred because of the fast motion.  The next thing to consider when choosing a lens for sports photography is the focal length of the lens. Most of the action in sports happens in an area that may not be right next to where you are shooting from. Often you may need to shoot across a large field or court to get the action shots. This requires a lens with a long focal length. Most lenses that come with DSLR kits have a maximum focal distance of around 70-105mm. While these lenses may be good for shooting subjects that are close to you, they will be almost useless when photographing sports action any more than a few yards away from you. A good starting point for a sports photography lens is 200mm. A 200mm lens will allow you to shoot sports action when you can stand on the sidelines, or relatively close to the action. For larger fields or in situations where you may not be able to shoot right from the sidelines a lens with a focal length of 400mm or 500mm would be a good choice. Using a lens with a long focal length like this will allow you to shoot right into the action without being right next to it. Some lenses to consider for sports photography are listed below. Most of these lenses are pretty bulky and heavy, because of this a useful accessory to consider is a monopod. Tripods are bulky and can be difficult to move around easily and therefore are usually not allowed when shooting sports photography. Monopods take the place of tripods in this situation. A monopod is simply a single pole that mounts to the camera or, in the case of larger lenses, a mounting ring on the lens. Its function is similar to that of a tripod, but a monopod is much more maneuverable and compact. A monopod will help relieve your arms of holding up the heavy lens and will also help to steady you shot and prevent camera shake.  Labels: camera, cameras, equipment, Photography, shooting, sports, sports photography

All About Macro Photography
Macro Photography  Taking close-up photographs of a subject is called 'Macro Photography.' Technically macro photography is when the image projected on the film plane of a camera is the same size as the object in real life. This is referred to as a 1:1 ratio. More recently 'macro photography' has been expanded to describe ratios of 1:2 as well as general close up photography. (A 1:2 ratio means that the image projected on the film plane is half of its actual life size.) Many new point and shoot cameras can produce great macro photography results. However, to achieve a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio you generally need a macro lens on an SLR camera. A basic setup for macro photography could be a Canon T1i with a Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 compact macro lens. A lens with macro capabilities allows the camera to focus on a subject that is much closer to the lens than a normal lens would allow. Therefore a lens with macro capabilities allows a photographer to focus on and photograph a tiny subject with fine details and achieve the 1:1 ratio. This can allow a large, high quality print of the small subject to be produced. Macro lenses come in a wide variety of focal lengths. Each macro lens can be used to photograph a variety of different subjects depending on the focal length: - 35-60mm range is typically used to photograph products and other small objects.
- 75-125mm range is the focal length range typically used for flowers and insects.
- 150-200mm+ range is generally used for insects and small animals.
Another tool for macro photography is an extension tube. An extension tube is basically a tube with a lens mount on one end and a camera mount on the other. This allows the extension tube to fit between the camera and the lens. An extension tube has no optics in it and is used to extend the distance between the lens and the film plane in the camera. An extension tube works in the same way bellows on a camera do, they simply extend the distance of the lens from the film plane. The further the lens is away from the film plane, the closer the lens can focus on the subject and therefore the larger the subject will appear when projected on the film plane. However, there is a trade off, the longer the extension tube, the more light loss there is, requiring a longer exposure. Some extension tubes do not have electronic contacts and therefore will not allow for auto focus or electronic aperture functions to be used. Keep this in mind when shopping for an extension tube.  Another option for macro photography is a close-up lens, (sometimes referred to as a close-up filter.) A close-up lens works in the same way a magnifying lens does. The close-up lens allows any lens to focus closer to a subject. The close-up lens simply screws onto the front of a lens in the same place a filter would attach to the lens. This allows any lens to be used for macro photography.  A telephoto extender can also produce macro capabilities. A telephoto extender (sometimes referred to as a teleconverter) is simply a secondary lens, placed between the camera and the lens that enlarges the image produced by the lens and projects it onto the film plane. A telephoto extender effectively extends the focal length of a lens. For example a 2x telephoto extender when mounted with a 150mm lens will produce the effect of a lens with a focal length of a 300mm. Telephoto extenders generally come in 1.4x, 1.7x, 2x and 3x models. The downside to a telephoto extender is that like an extension tube, a telephoto extender decreases the amount of light that reaches the film plane, requiring a longer exposure time. While a telephoto extender allows the photographer to zoom in closer to a subject, the focusing distance remains the same. Reversing the lens is another technique for macro photography. Reversing the lens is exactly what it sounds like, using a reversing ring to mount the lens backwards on the camera body. A reversing ring is an adapter that screws onto the filter threads on the front of a lens and allows the lens to be mounted in reverse to the camera body. This can be a good quality, low cost way to use lenses you may already have to take macro photographs. This technique can be combined with extension tubes or bellows to achieve even closer focus.  It is even possible to mount a reversed lens in front of a normally mounted lens for use in macro photography. To do this, the reverse mounted lens must be of lesser focal length than the normally mounted lens. The normal lens is attached to the camera in the standard way, and then the other lens is reverse mounted to the front of the normally mounted lens by using a macro coupler. The macro coupler screws into the filter threads on both of the lenses and allows the lenses to be joined together. Using this technique also allows most cameras to maintain full function of electronic features on the normally mounted lens. The magnification ratio can be calculated by dividing the focal length of the normally mounted lens by the focal length of the reverse mounted lens. For example, when a 15mm lens is reverse mounted on a 300mm lens the resulting magnification ratio will be 20:1. Other things to consider in macro photography:Depth of field is an important consideration in macro photography. In macro photography depth of field becomes very shallow. Limited depth of field in macro photography makes it essential to focus on the most important part of the subject being photographed. Even parts of a subject slightly in front or behind the focal plane can be noticeably out of focus. It may be necessary to use a small aperture at achieve an acceptable depth of field. Lighting is another important element to consider in macro photography. Lighting can be especially important because of the need to use a small aperture. However, achieving a bright, well lit subject may be difficult in macro photography simply because of the close proximity of the lens to the subject. A tool known as a ring flash, such as the Canon Macro Ring Light MR-14EX can be used to light a subject that is very close to the lens. A ring flash is a circular flash that is mounted around the front of a lens.  Labels: close-up, flower, flowers, insect, macro, macro photography, nature, photographer, Photography

New Canon EOS Rebel T1I / 500d in stock!!!
The BRAND NEW Canon Rebel T1I / 500D will be in stock tomorrow, Friday 4/24!!!
That's right! The brand new addition to Canons successful digital EOS Rebel series will be in stock at Berger Brothers Camera this Friday April 24!
The Canon EOS Rebel T1i (500d) is Canons newest digital SLR camera in the popular Rebel series of entry-level DSLR cameras. The Rebel T1i is the fifth generation of digital Rebels from Canon and is being released just over a year after its predecessor, the EOS Rebel XSi (450d).
The new Rebel T1i has some great new features that make it a great entry-level DSLR camera and a nice upgrade from the Rebel XSi. First and foremost, the Rebel T1i features a newly designed APS size 15.1 MP Canon CMOS sensor similar to the one that appears in the Canon 50d, but specially designed for the Rebel T1i. This makes the Rebel T1i a great camera for making large prints or allowing for tremendous cropping ability while still maintaining great print quality. The Rebel T1i is first DSLR camera to feature video. In fact the Rebel T1i features 1080p HD video! An HDMI port allows the Rebel T1i to be connected to HDTVs and monitors for easy viewing of video and still images.
Also new to the Rebel series is the 3" Clear View LCD screen that features a 920,000 dot VGA monitor. This is the same screen that is used on Canons more expensive 5D MarkII DSLR. This allows users to have a large preview of their images to check focus, composition and exposure. The Rebel T1i also features a 'live view' mode that allows real time images to be displayed on the rear LCD, allowing for compact camera style shooting with DSLR quality images.
The Canon DIGIC 4 processor allows for continuous shooting at speeds up to 3.4 frames per second up to 170 jpgs, making the Rebel T1i a great choice for parents wishing to shoot action shots of their young sports stars.
The Rebel T1i has many of the features found on the Canon 50d, packed into a lighter body similar to the Rebel XSi body.
Overview of the Rebel T1i features:
- 15.1 Canon APS size CMOS sensor
- ISO range of 100-3200 (expandable to 6400 and 12800)
- Full HD video recording at resolutions up to 1920x1080 (20fps at 1920x1080; 30fps at 1280x720 and 640x480)
- HDMI connection to allowing for viewing on HDTVs
- 3.4 Frames per second burst rate shooting for up to 170 jpgs or 9 RAW images
- Large 3" Clear View LCD screen with Live View mode
- 35 zone evaluative metering
- 9 Auto-focus points with cross type center point (AI focus, One Shot and AI Servo modes)
- EOS integrated sensor cleaning system
- Compatible with all Rebel XSi accessories
- Full compatibility with Canon EF and EF-S lenses and EX-Speedlites
 Also new from Canon is the Speedlite 270EX Flash
The Canon Speedlite 270EX Flash replaces the 220EX Speedlite. The 270EX features a pivoting flash head that allows the flash head to pivot up for bounce flash photography.
Labels: 270ex, cameras, canon, d500, digital, dslr, eos, flash, lens, new, news, Photo, photographic, Photography, rebel, SLR, speedlite, t1i

Getting & Hanging a Show
Here are a few tips for those of you interested in having your photographs seen in a gallery. You should have 20 to 30 very good images - properly exposed and focused with a consistent viewpoint or unique look. Recognize that there is tremendous competition to have work accepted by a gallery. Do not let this deter you but you must do your homework. Visit any gallery several times before approaching them to make sure that what you are doing fits with what they are showing. Other wise you are wasting your time.
Assuming your work is similar to what they have been showing; ask how they want to see submissions, e.g., prints, cd or website - give it to them the way they want it! If a gallery accepts your work, be prepared to give over half the profits to the gallery.
Another path is to approach so called "vanity galleries." These galleries usually charge you to hang a show and are more interested in your money then the quality of your work. They will give your work exposure but offer no feather for your cap.
If you do get a show put a lot of energy into promoting it. Advertising can be expensive but not making the effort is like not believing in your self. This is especially true if you manage to get into a major gallery. Give it your all.
Preparing to hang a show in a gallery presents many important decisions which you must make and some which the gallery makes for you.
The gallery will no doubt have specific rules for how your work should be signed. Typically, you will be signing photographic prints on the back and listing the title, date taken, media type, e.g., digital print or C print, etc. and width and height of image.
As to signing and putting a title on the mat, there are two schools of thought. Some think you shouldn't put anything on mat front that will detract from image. Others see no problem with this. The decision is yours.
Another big question is whether to cut your own mats. This ties in with whether to use custom or standard image sizes. If you are cropping your images to odd sizes and must custom cut mats it will really escalate costs. Using standard image sizes will let you buy pre-cut mats and find better deals on frames.
If you do cut your own mats, make sure the cuts are clean and crisp. Nothing will detract from your image more then a sloppy mat. You can make matting easier by printing all your work at a standard canvas size but using a smaller image size. For instance, printing a 7.5 x 11.5 image on a standard size 8 x 12 paper.
As for frames...simple black frames are usually the best presentation vehicles. Glass is cheaper but not suitable for larger size frames. Plexiglas can scratch easily. It comes in different types: non glare is the best but costs more.
Good luck, Ken Nadle

Street Photography
 Almost from the birth of photography in 1839, there were people taking pictures on the street. Of course, in those early days of photography the shutter was so slow that any people in a street picture showed up as a blur if at all. Beyond this, the cameras were so big and unfamiliar to the public that street photography and the candid seizing of moments of urban reality weren't really possible. And then, circa 1930 the Leica 35mm camera changed everything. Suddenly, it was possible to have a camera with you at all times. Because of its small size the Leica and the other 35mm cameras that followed permitted photographers to operate with a certain amount of stealth. The social landscape, as street photography is sometimes called, became a school. The French had a word for these photographers - flaneur...a walker in the city. It implied not only a person walking about looking at things but reflecting on them. Degas, himself a novice photographer was quoted as describing such images as "what you see when passing in the street." This fascination with life in the street very quickly found its way to the USA and most specifically, to New York City. New York street photography is a genre. In its most perfected form it is a way of seeing the irony and ephemeral nature of city reality. It is not simply a snapshot taken of a street. Rather, it is the use of timing, juxtaposition and framing to capture what Cartier-Bresson called the decisive moment. Such pictures are not easy to come by. Yet there are those photographers, like Elliot Erwitt, Bruce Davidson, Helen Levitt, Berenice Abbott, Garry Winogrand and many more who have the gift of vision and skill to capture images that speak volumes about human nature, irony and the magic of life.
I believe that some of us are hardwired to appreciate the confluence of seeable elements and reading these is a form of visual intelligence. Such people do not necessarily take photographs...still they see the unspoken message. After all, before there was language there was seeing.
Street photography is a valuable tool for understanding ourselves. Looking at these frozen slices of reality in the calm of a book or gallery permits us to lower our defenses and let in what we might otherwise have missed in the city's hustle and bustle.
Ken Nadle
Labels: Photo, Photography, Street Photography

Nikon D90 DSLR 18-105mm VR Kit
Nikon D90 DSLR 18-105mm VR Kit
 The D90 is in the house and the general consensus is that it offers some significant improvemets over the excellent D80. To begin, the D90 has a 12.3 MP CMOS sensor while the D80 has a 10.2 MP CCD sensor. A CMOS (complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) is a sensor touted for its faster operating speed and lower power consumption when compared to a CCD sensor.
The D90 has added a sensor cleaning system and increases maximum ISO sensitivity to 6400 as compared to the D80's 3200. Frames per second (fps) has stepped up from 3 in the D80 to 4.5 in the D90. The LCD monitor on the D90 is a larger 3" versus the D80's 2.5." Add Movie Mode and Live View in the same size body as the D80 and it is easy to see why some Nikon owners might be swayed to move up to a D90.
In various blogs I have seen much debate about how useful it is to have a video capability in a DSLR. There seems to be as many photographers for as against. The D90 can only take 5 minutes of video and while the results are not bad, they in no way match the video capability of a camcorder. On the other hand, having video capability could be useful for that rare moment when you come face to face with Big Foot.
There also seems to be two camps when it comes to Live View. I think it is best to consider these recent innovations as more bells and whistles. It can't hurt to have them available and I'm told that these features do not increase the cost of the camera in any significant way.
Bottom line, the D90 is an improvement when compared to the outstanding D80 and offers users more versatility - not a bad thing if you think about it.
Nikon D90 DSLR 18-105mm VR Kit - In Stock $1,299.99
Nikon D90 Body Only - In stock Now! - $999.99
"Prices and stock availability posted in this blog are subject to change."Labels: cameras, Nikon, Nikon D90, products, SLR

Comments and suggestions about this and future newsletters are welcome: Email me at Ken@berger-bros.com.
KEN NADLE - editor
www.Berger-Bros.com
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